Thursday, December 1, 2011

Nerf Vortex Nitron - Shoot Farther, Faster and Be the Envy of Your Friends

!±8± Nerf Vortex Nitron - Shoot Farther, Faster and Be the Envy of Your Friends

A High 'Cool' Factor with the Nerf Vortex Nitron

Who's got the coolest kid in the neighborhood? We've all got (or are) the coolest kid in the neighborhood! When it's play time, we all know it's the kid with the biggest Nerf guns that win.

It's the same throughout life. Nerf is known for leading the pack in backyard weaponry and their addition of the Nerf Vortex Nitron is a light piece of artillery. Its large magazine and rapid fire could be what makes it king of hill for those wanting something quick and light.

The new flashing scoped feature is supposed to help young ones improve their aim but may be better as a beacon for target practice.

Nerf Vortex Nitron has the Upper Hand with Extra Storage

The Vortex Nitron is Nerf's first fully automatic clip fed gun. This definitely gives kids (or in any case, kids at heart) the upper hand when it comes to both long and short range battlefield games. For starters, the Vortex's large magazine holds a 20 disc round.

On the gun itself are the capabilities to add a second magazine for onboard storage, thus doubling the 'disc space'. (if you will, lol) For under ten bucks you're really doubling the fun and I say it's totally worth it!

Thumbs up to the storage, it allows for quick reload when you set the gun to rapid firing! Loading and reloading really are simple and easy to use. Discs slide easily into the magazine and the magazine clicks into place.

Nerf Vortex Nitron Shooting Power

The disc eject switch on the Vortex Nitron slides forward to get the shooting power underway. (Think of it as taking the safety off.) This locks the magazine into place. When everything is loaded properly and clicked into place there's reason to believe firing should be jam resistant.

The Nitron works using a two hand trigger system. Squeeze the acceleration trigger with one hand to start the guns 'motor'. Once the blaster has been turned on, you're free to pull the trigger to release discs faster and farther than most opponents.

Get Extreme Range with the Nerf Votex Nitron

With range the Nerf Vortex Nitron gets it again. Inside, your blaster is capable of easily and consistently launching the neon colored discs at least 25-30 feet. On a good day with the breeze on your side, you're looking to see an amazing range in upwards of 35 feet!

The Nerf Vortex Nitron has its flaws but in all it's a well built, long range toy gun. While a little loud, the automatic firing is sure to please the Nerf enthusiast or kiddo alike! Be the envy of every kid on the block with this fun, safe, cool Nerf shooter.


Nerf Vortex Nitron - Shoot Farther, Faster and Be the Envy of Your Friends

Used Coconut Diet

Saturday, November 12, 2011

Glass Industry Terms - Everything You've Always Wanted to Know About Glass But Were Afraid to Ask

!±8± Glass Industry Terms - Everything You've Always Wanted to Know About Glass But Were Afraid to Ask

What is frit? Frit is an industry term for the paint that is applied around the perimeter of the automotive glass parts. One of the key ingredients in frit is a glass ceramic particle that fuses to the glass surface making it a very durable and scratch resistant surface.

Why is frit (paint) on the glass? Frit serves two roles on the glass. First, it is a cosmetic feature that is used to hide interior trim and pinchweld details. Early model vehicles used wide moldings to obscure what would otherwise be exposed areas. As moldings became smaller to the point of nonexistence on several current models, the frit had a greater role in covering unfinished areas of the vehicle. Secondly, the frit inhibits UV degradation of urethane adhesives. While the frit will not completely block the UV rays from passing through the glass, it does significantly reduce UV light transmission. Most urethanes are not UV stable. If urethane is left exposed to sunlight for prolonged periods of time, it will yellow and turn chalky. Presence of the frit will extend the lifetime of the urethane adhesive system.

How many types of frit are there? There are hundreds of types of frits developed for automotive glass applications. The most common automotive glass frits we use are black, gray and white although other colors are available. Frit pastes are developed to work in combination with the processing requirements needed for a specific part. Each paste is developed for the specific furnace time and temperature parameters used to fabricate parts at a manufacturing location. It is not uncommon for a glass manufacturing facility to work with a dozen different frit pastes.

How is frit applied to the glass? Frit is applied to the glass utilizing a silk screen method. It is very similar to the method used to silk screen T-shirts. An image of the frit design is developed for the glass in the bent or curved shape. Then the image is unwrapped and flattened. A silk screen is made to allow the frit to pass through openings in the screen. The openings correspond to the final design image. The frit is a thick paste that is put onto the screen. Squeegees are used to push the frit paste through the screen openings and onto the glass. Frit is applied to the glass while it is in the flat position before it is processed through the furnace. The furnace helps to cure the frit and to fuse it to the glass surface. Every part with each different design has a unique silk screen. Silk screens are constantly being maintained throughout the life of a part. Because of the fragile nature of the screens, they will wear out and commonly need to be remade throughout the lifetime of a part in production.

What is Batch glass? Batch is a glass reference term that identifies a part of the manufacturing process. The raw components of glass are properly proportioned and mixed in batches for delivery to the furnace. Even though glass is made in a continual process that runs 24 hours a day, every day of the year, the raw materials are added as needed in batches. To state that a glass is batch glass, it implies that there is not any post manufacturing materials, i.e. a film or coating, applied to the glass. Batch glass gets all its characteristics from the raw materials that are used to make the glass. In the case of privacy or solar batch glass, the dark colorants and UV inhibitors are mixed in with the original ingredients in the batch to make the glass.

What is Float glass? Float glass refers to the glass manufacturing process. The raw components of glass are melted in a furnace between a temperature range of 240OF to 2850 F. A continual process is established as the molten glass is moved from the furnace to the tin bath where it is supported on molten tin until the glass cools from the slurry state to a temperature where the glass becomes solid. The float process was developed by Pilkington during 1950's and is now considered the primary state of the art process for manufacturing automotive and architectural glass.

What is the tin side and what is the air side of glass? As mentioned earlier, the float glass process involves floating molten glass on.molten tin. The molten tin is smooth enough to give glass its flat surfaces. The tin and glass are like oil and water, they don't mix. However, the side of glass that is in contact with tin during the float process does pick up a microscopic layer of tin. This is considered the tin side of float glass. The top side of glass is called the air or atmosphere side. To detect the tin side of glass, hold an UV light at an angle to the glass surface. The tin side will glow and the air side will not.

What is Soft-Ray and what is Solar-Ray'? Soft-Ray and Solar-Ray are GM Trademarks for the glass used in their vehicles. It identifies the TYPE of glass used for construction and can appear on either laminated or tempered glass. LOF uses E-Z-Eye glass for the production of Soft-Ray parts and EZKool solar control glass for Solar-Ray parts. PPG uses Solex and Solar Green respectively. Deep Tint Solar-Ray is another GM trademark that appears on dark colored solar control parts.

What is a monogram? A monogram is often referred to as the bug or trademark. Every automotive piece of glass is required by law to have an identifying mark on the glass that will be visible once that glass is in the correctly installed position in the vehicle. These marks are usually painted on the glass, but they can also be sand blasted or acid etched into the surface.

What is in a monogram? For automotive applications, there are certain governmental items that must be in the monogram including a department of transportation (DOT) number, the model (M) number and the glass type (AS-1, AS-2, AS-3 etc.) Monograms can also include information such as the brand name of the glass, the company name that made the glass, the company logo, the country of origin and a date code identifying when the glass was manufactured.

Is there anyway to determine what a part is by the monogram on the glass? Unfortunately, the majority of monograms do not have any information in it to help determine what an unmarked part is. However, we are starting to see more parts marked with the NAGS number in the Monogram. As more of this is done, it will be easier to correctly identify unknown parts.

2-What is the difference between AS-1, AS-2 and AS-3 glasses codes? For automotive applications, the three most common types of glass are AS-1, AS-2, and AS-3. All windshields must be marked with the AS-1 code which is on laminated glass having light transmission greater than 70%. All tempered glass that has light transmission above 70% is marked with an AS-2 code. All glass, laminated or tempered, that has less then 70% light transmission will have an AS-3 Code.

What is a DOT code? The DOT number identifies the glass manufacturer. The acronym DOT stands for Department of Transportation. Each glazing manufacture must apply for a DOT number in order to sell glazings for vehicles in the United States of America. Each DOT number is assigned by the government and is unique for every manufacturer. Every piece of glass that is made must contain that DOT code if it is to be sold in the automotive market.

What is an M number? The M number is a model number that is assigned by all glass manufacturing companies. Each company establishes their own M number system that is unique to that organization. The M number identifies the specific glass construction. It can identify the glass details used to manufacture a part such as glass color and thickness. One Model number might apply to 50 different part numbers. Each Model number is tested every year for compliance with the governmental regulations. Most of the time, a part number cannot be determined by the M number.

How can I determine whether the glass in a car is original or a replacement? If you don't know the history of the car, one-way to identify a piece of glass is to check the monogram on the glass. If you, knew the manufacturer of the original glass, check the DOT (Department of Transportation) number on the glass in the car. If the DOT number doesn't belong to the OE glass supplier, then the part was a replacement. If the number does match, then check the date code on the glass. Most manufacturers mark the monogram with a means of identifying the month and year of glass production, sometimes even the date and shift! Since each company does it differently, you'll have to contact the appropriate manufacturer for their date code conventions, which can include combinations of letters, numbers or even dots over various letters. By comparing the date of the glass with the date of the car assembly, you can determine if they are the same vintage. If the glass date closely matches the vehicle assembly date, chances are the glass is original.

Which side of the vehicle is the right hand side? The RIGHT hand side of the vehicle is the PASSENGER'S side of the vehicle. The DRIVER'S side of the vehicle would be the LEFT-hand side. Rule of thumb, right and left sides are determined by picturing yourself sifting in the car.

When should a non-conductive adhesive be used? If the adhesive will contact the antenna or defroster lines when the part is installed, use a non-conductive adhesive. Non-conductive adhesives prevent interference with antenna systems and heated defroster systems that are contained in the glass. Many new glass parts have the antenna, defroster connections or buss bars around the edge of the glass in the same area that the adhesive is applied to install a glass part. Using a conductive adhesive will affect the performance of the electrical system. Several adhesive manufacturers offer a non-conductive product for these glass applications. Be sure to follow the manufacturers specific instructions for the adhesive system you use.

How do installation methods cause stress cracks? Installation related cracks usually result from a short cut out method, where all of the old urethane bed is not removed prior to installation. If the shape and form of the new glass is not identical to the old urethane bed, the glass could have spots of interference on the adhesive that lead to breaking. Installation related stress could also be formed by using adhesives that are too rigid and don't offer the compression and flexibility required of the adhesive system. Usually, installation related stress cracks would develop over time after the adhesive has been allowed to fully cure.

What is tempered glass? Tempered glass is a single piece of glass that is strengthened through a rapid cooling process. This cooling process tempers the glass by blasting both the top and bottom surfaces with air. The outside surfaces of the glass cool faster than the core of the glass. This action sets up a balance of strains between the surfaces and the core which adds considerable strength to the glass. Tempered glass is difficult to break, but if broken it breaks into small granular pieces.

How are tempered parts made? Glass of the specified thickness is cut to the desired size. Any artwork or paint design is applied to the glass while it is in the flat position. This includes any heated grid lines or antenna lines required on the final part. The glass is loaded into a furnace and is heated to temperatures of 12,000 F. There are multiple processes that could be used to bend the glass as it exits the furnace including roll.

How much force is required to break a tempered backlite? While the strength of tempered glass can seem very high, it is important to recognize that the manner in which tempered glass is broken will affect the strength. Tempered glass is extremely difficult to break with dull, blunt objects. Tempered glass can have a rupture strength of up to 24,000 pounds per square inch. Recall that tempered glass is produced by rapid cooling of the outside glass surfaces which sets up a stress / strain balance.

Why do the heated grid lines on heated backlites sometimes have a redbrown color and other times have a yellow color? The color of the grid lines is predominately determined by the surface of glass that they are printed on. The lines will have a dark appearance when printed on the tin side of glass. The lines will have a brighter yellow or amber color when printed on the air side of glass. Other colors, such as white or light gray, may indicate a potential manufacturing problem with the heated grid lines such as an under fired condition or too much silver. These can result in a heated backlite that does not function correctly.

Is it a defect to see discolored spot patterns on tempered glass? No, the discolored spot patterns on a piece of glass are actually a phenomenon of the tempering process. During tempering, air is forced onto the glass through hundreds of nozzles. The spots are areas where the cool air contacts the glass. The temper spot pattern can indicate how well a piece of glass is tempered. The size and consistency of the discolored areas will vary with the exact process used, but they are present on all tempered parts. The ability to see these patterns is dependent on the angle ' of installation and the lighting conditions. For example, it is easier to see the patterns on a sloping piece of glass at dusk than it is to see them on a vertical piece in bright sunlight.

What is an Innershield? The innershield is a layer of plastic on the innermost piece of glass which was most commonly used on the windshield. The innershield prevented lacerations on an occupant's head and face if they came in contact with the windshield in the event of an accident. The innershield was a popular option on deluxe vehicles about ten years ago.

How is a shadeband put into a windshield? The shadeband is pre-tinted onto the plastic that is placed between the glass plies. The plastic comes in rolls and one end of the roll has the shade color. During processing, it may be required to warp the plastic to curve the shadeband so it will match the curve of the top of, the windshield. After warping, the plastic is cut to size and it is ready to use.

What is delamination? Delamination is the separation of the glass plies and plastic layer in a laminated product such as a windshield. This is also known as an unbonded area (UBA) or an oil blow. Old autoclaving process used hot petroleum to laminate windshields and the oil could seep into the edges causing the windshield to delaminate.

What is bullet proof glass and how is it different from bullet resistant glass? Bullet proof glass is glass that will stop a bullet. Any bullet. To make a glass bullet proof, every type of bullet from every type of gun must be taken into consideration during the design of the glass. Bullet proof glass is actually a composite of glass and plastic layers laminated together to achieve a strong composite that will stop a bullet. Bullet proof glass will be three or more inches thick. Bullet resistant glass is designed for applications with a resistance to a range of specific bullet calibers. Bullet resistance glass can be obtained in a 3/4 inch thick composite of glass and plastics laminated together. On vehicle applications, the environmental end use is considered for the glass design. If a vehicle is outfitted with bullet proof or bullet resistant glazing, all the interior trim must also be reworked to accommodate the thicker glass.

What are stress cracks? Stress cracks are breaks from the edges of laminated glass, such as a windshield, that happen without an impact point or noticeable damaged area. While this phenomenon can occur with seemingly no apparent cause, there are however, two major factors that have a role in creating stress cracks. The stress crack can be caused by a manufacturing defect within the glass or it can be attributed to the installation methods.

How do glass defects cause stress cracks? Stress cracks can occur if the two plies of glass used to make the laminated part are not completely homogenous with each other. Stress cracks can be a condition of tension or compression that exist within the glass. Stress can also be caused by incomplete annealing or temperature difference between the plies. Manufacturing processes include multiple quality checkpoints for every individual part during production to identify and eliminate defective parts. Even so, it can be difficult to predict a stress crack due to manufacturing conditions.

I have often heard of a windshield surface referred to as the number 1, 2, 3 or 4 surface. What do these numbers mean? The windshield surface number refers to the glass surface of the individual glass plies in the laminated composite. A basic windshield construction is composed of two pieces of glass with a plastic layer in between. The surfaces are counted from OUTSIDE the vehicle. Therefore, surface number 1 is the outside surface of the exterior glass piece that would be exposed once installed in the vehicle. Surface number 4 is the innermost surface which would be on the interior of the vehicle once installed. Surface number 4 is the surface that is prepped with primers, cleaners and or activators required for installation. Surface # 2 and 3 are interior surfaces that are in contact with the plastic.

What is laminated glass? Laminated glass is constructed of two pieces of glass with a piece of plastic in between the glass plies. One type of plastic innerlayer used is PVB or polyvinyl butyral. Laminated glass is required to make windshields in the US.

How are windshields made? Two separate pieces of glass are cut to size. While the glass is flat it is printed with the artwork design (frit) that's required. The glass is put through a furnace to soften the glass and fire the frit to the glass surface. Once the glass reaches the right temperature, it is molded into shape and then cooled. After shaping, the glass/ plastic/ glass sandwich is put in a clean room and then put into an autoclave. An autoclave is like a giant pressure cooker. The high pressure squeezes the glass and plastic together. The higher temperature softens the plastic, which bonds the glass and plastic layers together. Once the glass exits the autoclave, any excess plastic is trimmed and the mirror mount is applied to the glass. The glass is inspected and cleaned several times throughout the entire process to make sure it has been manufactured to the highest quality standards. After a final inspection, the finished part is now ready to ship.

What is the Breakaway Bracket? Several new GM and Ford windshields have a Breakaway Bracket. This refers To the mirror button on the windshield. This style mirror button allows the rearviewmirror to snap off when the passenger air bag is deployed. If the rear view mirror did not snap off, there is a possibility that the mirror could puncture the air bag rendering it ineffective. The accessory tool used to remove these snap off rearview mirrors is the MB-4. TIP: Put Breakaway rearview mirrors back on the glass before installing the windshield. This will prevent moving a newly installed windshield out of place with the force required to snap the mirror on the glass.

How is a windshield glass molded into shape? There are two common practices for shaping a windshield, gravity bending and press bending. Gravity bending has been used longer than press bending. For gravity bending, two pieces flat glass ride through the furnace on a mold contoured like the finished part. As the glass softens, the force of gravity pulls the glass into shape. This pair of gravity bent glass is then kept together throughout the rest of the windshield process. In a press bending operation, the single lites of glass go through a furnace on a flat surface of high temperature resistant rollers. As the glass exits the furnace it is quickly pressed into shape between a male and female mold contoured like the finished product. The glass is then cooled and moved to the next process.

How can I determine if a diversity or non-diversity antenna backlite is needed? The diversity antenna will use a combination of antennas in order to perform efficiently. Most diversity-antennas are offered with vehicle upgrade packages. A standard car model may only have the mast antenna, whereas the deluxe luxury package may incorporate a diversity antenna in the backlite with the mast antenna. How to determine the need for a diversity antenna will differ depending on the vehicle. The current Toyota Camry has extra speakers (6 total) on the vehicle that uses a diversity antenna and only 4 speakers on the vehicle that uses the non-diversity antenna.

Can an antenna or heated backlite clip be reattached to the glass if it has fallen off? Clips, or tabs, can be reattached to the glass. In order to determine if the connection is repairable, the surface of the glass must be evaluated. If there are any chunks of glass (called spalls) missing from the surface, the repair should not be made and the glass should be replaced. Spalls will weaken the glass and could eventually result in glass breakage. Next, select the adhesive to be used to reattach the clips. There are a few companies that manufacture a conductive adhesive system that can be used to reattach the tabs. The adhesive must be conductive so it will allow the electrical current pass between the lines on the glass and the vehicle. Follow the manufacture's directions for the repair. Regular super glue adhesives will not work because they are non-conductive. HINT: Be sure to clean both the glass surface and the clip surface of old debris. Also, let the repaired part sit for the recommended cure time so the adhesive bond is fully developed.

Will a broken heated grid line on a backlite affect the operation of the antenna? Many new radio and cellular phone antenna designs are incorporated into the heated grid design in the backlite. If a heated grid line is broken it will affect the performance of the antenna. The line break will become more noticeable with the general public as diversity antennas gain popularity and reduce the need for traditional mast antennas. There are aftermarket grid line repair systems available which can restore both the heating and the antenna characteristics of the grid line.

What is a Rain Sensor windshield? Several vehicle manufacturers, including Cadillac, Mercedes Benz and BMW, are now offering Rain Sensor windshields. The rain sensor is actually a small electronic device mounted to the inside surface of the windshield. The device has a lens that will detect the presence of moisture on the outside surface of glass. When moisture is present, a signal is sent to the wiper control that automatically activates the windshield wipers. This a great safety option for those misty periods when a driver is passing trucks and road spray hits the windshield. The windshield wipers will activate without the need for the driver to remove his hands from the wheel or his eyes from the road.

Does the rain sensor module come on the replacement windshield? No. At this time, none of the rain sensor designs require the sensor to be applied by the manufacturer on the replacement windshields. The electronic sensor that is on the existing windshield in the car must be removed and re-mounted onto the replacement windshield.

How is the rain sensor attached to the replacement windshield? There are special re-attachment kits for the replacement industry, available through your local Car dealer, which can be used to re-attach the electronic rain sensor to the new windshield. The Cadillac kit consists of tape, cleaners and primers for replacing the Cadillac module. The Mercedes / BMW kit contains the tape and a new lens. Instructions for application are included in all the kits.

Is it normal for HUD display to appear faded in bright light conditions? Bright sunlight or high glare conditions can result in a dimmer display of the Head's Up display. It is normal for a HUD to appear brighter at night in darker conditions that during the day under full sun. It is not normal for the HUD to completely disappear. If the display is fading when the car changes momentum, such as when turning a corner or accelerating, then the problem could be a system defect and it's recommended that a dealer check out the electronics. There is nothing in the windshield to cause the display to fade or appear less intense.

What is a diversity antenna? A diversity antenna combines the reception from several individual antennas on the vehicle that makes it a very efficient antenna system. The definition of diverse means different, therefore a diversity antenna in a backlite is one that could Work with the mast (pillar) antenna mounted to the car. The two different antennas work together to achieve superior AM/FM radio reception. The 1998 Cadillac Seville has a diversity antenna system that consists of an antenna in the windshield and antenna in the backlite that work together.

What is a non-diversity antenna? A non-diversity antenna system relies on only one antenna for radio wave reception. Several examples of non-diversity antenna include 1) a mast antenna mounted to the vehicle 2) an antenna printed on the backlite or 3) a set of wires mounted into the windshield. A non-diversity antenna will not be a combination.

Can a break in a HUD (Heads-Up-Display) windshield be repaired or must it be replaced? A break in the HUD windshield can be repaired like a normal non-HUD windshield. If the repair area is in the HUD image area, a repair may interfere with the image causing a double or distorted image. Therefore, consideration is required to determine if the type and size of break is repairable without HUD interference.

Passivated glass refers to chemically coated glass. Many automotive glass parts are coated to achieve either the solar control characteristics or the privacy features. The coating can usually be detected by the reflective, mirror-like appearance. Sometimes these coatings will also have a color associated with them and can make the glass look blue, pink or amber. The solar coatings are used to filter out the sun's ultraviolet and infrared wavelengths while the privacy coatings filter out visible light wavelengths. The wavelengths that are filtered out by coated glass, include the wavelength spectrums that CB radios, cellular phones, automated toll readers and radar detectors operate on. Therefore, the chemically coated glass can interfere with the operation of electronic devices that require a glass-mounted antenna.

What type of glass is recommended for a glass-mounted antenna? Glass that is referred to, as BATCH glass is compatible with glass mounted antennas. Solar and privacy batch glass is not coated like the passivated glass. Instead, the raw materials that give the glass its solar or privacy characteristics are added at the time the glass is made. The raw materials are melted right in with the sand and other components that glass are constructed from. Once the glass has been made, it would not need any other treatments prior to fabrication into automotive glass parts. Batch glass is uniform throughout the thickness of the glass. Coated parts are surface treated; the surface has different properties than the core of the glass.

Are there any special hints for re-attaching the rain sensor? Make sure the glass is very clean prior to attaching the sensor. The performance of the sensors depends on the optically clear grades of doublefaced tape used for reattaching the units. These tapes also need to be clean and free of bubbles when applied to the glass. Any impurities that may be present will give a false signal to the rain sensor causing it to activate unnecessarily.

What does the term "Auto-Cancel" refer to in the NAGS catalog? The Auto Cancel notation means the electrical input to the heated backlite design is automatically canceled after a specified time and/or temperature. Most heated backlites made today are for automatic cancellation systems. However, there are a few parts such as the Isuzu Trooper backlites where a different glass heated design is required for the automatic vs. the manual systems. For example, FB4815 is for an automatic cancellation heated grid system whereas FB4816 is for a manual cancellation heated grid system. 8-What is the difference between a heavy-duty heated backglass and a standard heated backglass? The heavy-duty back glass is rated for higher amperage. The Heavy-Duty (HD) designation is predominately used on foreign cars such as Honda and Toyota vehicles. Normal domestic vehicles were rated for 22 amps whereas heated backlites in Asian vehicles were generally rated for 11 amps. Amperage relates to speed of performance. The higher the amperage, the faster the backglass will heat and clear the frost from the glass. To accommodate the US market, many foreign car manufacturers developed the HD back glasses to offer compatible defrosting performance in the US. The heavy-duty backglass are an upgrade, but it does not interchange with the standard design.


Glass Industry Terms - Everything You've Always Wanted to Know About Glass But Were Afraid to Ask

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Monday, October 24, 2011

Stack-On ES-403-7-DS Jr. Elite Fire Resistant Safe with Combination Lock

!±8±Stack-On ES-403-7-DS Jr. Elite Fire Resistant Safe with Combination Lock

Brand : StackOn
Rate :
Price : $545.99
Post Date : Oct 25, 2011 01:00:08
Usually ships in 4-5 business days



The Stack-On Junior Elite Executive Fire Safe is perfect for anyone looking to protect valuables, collectibles and important documents. This safe is ETL fire rated to manufacturer's specifications for fire protection for 30 minutes (up to 1400 degrees Fahrenheit). Further, the UL classified Gypsum Wallboard and Palusol door stripping used in the construction of this safe ensures each safe performs up to this ETL fire rating. The safe is opened using a 3 number combination lock with steel hardened back plate to resists drill attacks. There are 3 large, live action locking bolts and 3 solid steel dead bolts on the hinge side of the door to provide 6 secure locking points. A pre-installed, fully carpeted interior protects your items, while the 3 adjustable, carpeted shelves allow you to customize the interior of your safe. Pre-drilled mounting holes in the floor of the safe and included fastening hardware allow you to easily secure your safe. The exterior has a stylish black and silver epoxy paint finish with chrome and black accents on the door. This safe is not recommended for storing CDs or other electronic storage devices. Stack-on safes truly offer a great value in the fire resistant safe category. Elite safes are fire rated to 1400 degrees Fahrenheit for 30 minutes by ETL without the interior temperature of the safe exceeding 350 degrees Fahrenheit, which is the standard for all Stack-On full sized safes. Many of these safes have convertible interiors. Features: Fire Resistant 1,2 hour standard fire protection up to 1400 degrees Fahrenheit Lock Protection Combination lock 3 large live action locking bolts 3 solid steel dead bolts on the hinge side of the door Bolt-Down Capability Safe bolts securely to floor Pre-drilled mounting holes and bolt-down hardware included 3 adjusta

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Thursday, October 20, 2011

The Liberty Safe Flexible Interior

!±8± The Liberty Safe Flexible Interior

The Liberty Safe company has been around for just over 20 years, and in that short time has seen phenomenal growth by offering an outstanding product. They have become an industry leader thorough innovation. Among some of these are HiSecurity Composite doors and unique bolt locking systems. But they didn't settle for just making safes more secure and fire resistant, they also wanted to make a Liberty safe more versatile and user friendly. They accomplished this in 1998 with the patented 4-in-1 Flex Interior.

In simple terms, this interior is aptly described by its name. It is one flexible safe interior with four different options. By using a flexible interior, most safes ship with the same basic set up, and then you, as the user, can determine what configuration works best for your needs.

The basic layout of the safe is a vertical divider in the middle of the safe that starts at the bottom and extends about 2/3 up. On each side of the divider are 3 shelves (the last shelf being on top, the lower two adjustable) and though the top one can look like one full size shelf, it is two separate pieces. Above this is a full size shelf with cut outs along the front or side. On the larger model safes that are taller (models 40 and above) there is an additional top shelf. The four possible configurations are called: Executive, Sportsman, EZ-Access and Collector. Lets take a look at each of these Liberty safe options and who would use each one.

The Executive. As its name implies, an executive may want to use this safe. Someone with a lot of important documents, collectibles, valuables and other smaller items. This set up is basically as described above, all shelves. Perfect for the home that does not use rifles.

The Sportsman. Again, as implied, this set up is good for a sportsman since it provides rows of slots to hold long guns. How is this possible? You simply remove the lower two adjustable shelves on the left side, and the shelf cover of the third shelf up, which exposes the long gun slots. Since the shelf above it has a cut out, this allow for any extra long guns to fit into the safe.

EZ-Access. To achieve this set up, you do the same as for the Sportsman, but on the right hand side of the safe. However, when you remove the shelf cover on this side, instead of rows of slots, you expose easily accessible slots that are in a U-shape for your long guns. Again, this model is aptly named, also for the long gun enthusiast, but for someone who wants to be able to access his rifles quickly and easily.

The Collector. You guessed it, this set up is for the long gun collector. You simply combine the Sportsman and EZ-Access by removing the shelves and exposing the gun slots on both sides of the safe for maximum long gun capacity.

Like most safe manufacturers, Liberty Safe has different series available. The 4-in-1 Flex Interior can be found on the Franklin Series. The Centurion and Colonial Series safes ship with the 3-in-1 Flex Interior. These interior options are the same as mentioned above, but can only be configured for the Sportsman, EZ-Access and Collector options.

So, if the interior layout of a safe is important to you, then a Liberty safe could be a great option. It allows you the flexibility to change as you grow older. You can have more or less long guns and keep them safe because the safe interior will adapt to your changing needs.


The Liberty Safe Flexible Interior

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Thursday, October 13, 2011

Bringing a Product to Market

!±8± Bringing a Product to Market

Bring a product to market can be a very frustrating process. And 'one who is not the case, mystical or by chance. Instead, follow a few timeless principles of successful entrepreneurs with whom they can achieve their goals. Fortunately, these principles into concrete actions you can begin to customize their product efforts are broken. In fact, there are 9 of them.

In this article we examine each of these 9 points in detail. Understanding thisA few steps from the inside out, will be better able to get your product, no matter where you start the process right now. Feel free to start the development phase of the jump or product that you happen to be in

Step 1: Think of an idea

Brainstorming ideas invention as a strange mystical process hearing. Much of this stems from the way in which people tend to think of ideas. If you've ever heard someone say. "You can not just think of great ideas come to you," Do you know whatthis means. We are taught that good ideas spontaneously pay us, and we need common sense to act on them if and when they do. Venture capitalist Paul Graham addresses this in his article "Ideas for Startups"

"If you come up with the idea of ​​a start-up will coincide with a million-dollar idea, then, of course, is apparently harder. Disturbing too difficult to prove. Our instincts tell us something so valuable would be around not only for anyone of. discover "

The problem withthis line of thinking, as Paul later explains, is that ideas in and of themselves are not what generates millions of dollars. The reason we feel so much internal resistance to the prospect of actively generating ideas is that we figure "If there was a good idea, someone else would've had it already." In fact, this is the wrong way to look at ideas. Generating ideas is an active (and active-minded) process. What really makes ideas pay is how they are executed, which is something you can control considerably. But it does, of course, start with the idea.

So if it is possible to generate ideas, how is it done? One good way to generate ideas is to limit your thinking to fields you like, or know exceptionally well. This limits the people you are competing against to those with your level of passion and expertise.

What you really want to do is turn off the self-censorship instinct that all of us have as human beings. When we come up with ideas or new thoughts, we tend to think "No, that's stupid" just because we have not already heard it elsewhere. Instead, try submitting your idea to a few minutes of rational scrutiny before discarding it as worthless. Think it through from top to bottom. Would I buy this? If not, why? What might my objections be? Can they be overcome? How? The further you get into this process, the more value your idea probably has. Above all, just let the ideas flow. You will separate the wheat from the chaff in step two.

Step 2: Decide if your idea is worth pursuing.

There's nothing like the enthusiasm one feels during a proverbial "I've got it!" moment. However, you still need to step back and reflect soberly on whether your idea is worth pursuing. Here are some things to consider in doing this.

Determine how well it will work.

How well will your idea work in practice? Will it work well enough to replace what people in this field already use? One easy way to determine this is to actively work in the field you envision your product being used for. This will give you a first hand glimpse into the current reality of what's out there and let you tangibly see how your creation would improve it. If that's not possible, find someone you trust in that field and bounce your idea off of them for feedback.

Who wants it?

There's nothing worse than wasting weeks, months, or even years theorizing about a creation that's "gonna be soooo great!" only to discover that no specific segment of customers truly wants it. To avoid this nightmare scenario, tell others about your idea. Ask them if and in what way it would truly improve their lives. The trick here is asking people who don't know you very well. They are more likely to be honest instead of preoccupied with not hurting your feelings.

How can it be made?

Another common pitfall is glossing over the messy particulars of how something will be made. In the euphoria of brainstorming, your mind is naturally drawn to the sexy aspects of invention, such as the huge market waiting to be capitalized or your pitch to investors. Instead, force yourself to focus on exactly what it will take to bring your patent idea to life. How can it be made? What materials are needed? What types of skills are necessary to put it all together? Having firm answers to these questions turns you from dreamer into doer.

If your idea can withstand this type of analysis, you are ready for step three.

Step 3: Creating an inventor's logbook.

Documenting new ideas is not just good practice. It may be absolutely critical if you intend on getting a patent for something and bringing it to market. So how do you go about keeping good records?

The answer is something called a logbook. A logbook is essentially an inventor's journal. It is where the inventor keeps track of his progress and dates each step. A logbook proves that you came up with your idea at a certain date and displayed due diligence in pursuing it. However, there are some definite standards you should adhere to when keeping a logbook. This will help ensure that your documentation looks legitimate to patent examiners.

1. You should start your logbook as soon as you think of an idea. Write down detailed records of key concepts, test results, and anything else having to do with the creation of your idea. This is the type of material that belongs in a logbook.

2. While there are pre-made logbooks for sale, you can easily make your own. Be sure to use a bound notebook, however, and not a loose-leaf. The reason is that bound notebooks make it hard to conceal the fact that pages were added or taken out.

3. Number each page consecutively. This establishes that the progress you made on your idea took place in a sequential order that anyone with common sense can observe. When one notebook is full, begin a new one and specify that this notebook is a continuation of the last one. There should be no visible gaps in your record keeping.

4. Each entry you write should be signed and dated by you and anyone else who participated in that step of the invention process. If at all possible, get a notary public to sign as well.

5. Give each entry a header with information about what is contained in it. For example, the date, subject, number of participants, witnesses, etc.

6. Include records of everything you do. When in doubt, assume that it is best to include it. Do not just include successful test results, for example. If you exclude negative findings or tests, the patent examiner may decide that you "cherry-picked" only the good stuff and reject your application.

7. Any and all other participants in the invention process need to have their roles disclosed. The importance of this convention cannot be stressed enough. If you omit an inventor's name from an invention he helped create, it is considered fraud.

8. Any loose materials like drawings, photos, or sketches should be signed, dated, and cross-referenced to the notebook entry they pertain to. It is best to tape or staple this material to the notebook entries in question.

Follow these tips, and your documentation will be airtight and at the ready, should a dispute ever arise.

Step 4: Identify a target market.

When you set out to bring a product to market, it's essential to know which market you are targeting. Many new entrepreneurs make the mistake of shooting for a very broad segment of the population. Their logic is that the more people they target, the more chances they have to make sales. In reality, however, it rarely works this way. In fact, you want to target as narrow a segment as you possibly can. This makes the people you target more likely to buy, and enables you to do more specific market research in your efforts.

Who is your ideal customer? What are their buying behaviors? Is your product seasonal, or do people typically buy it each and every month? The importance of scoping out the market cannot be stressed enough, as it will determine your distribution plans, price structure, and other important factors.

Ultimately, you will craft a marketing plan based on your target market. That is somewhat beyond the scope of this article, but here is a sample marketing plan. Consult it for details on what types of forecasts you should be setting and how to set them.

SRC: http://www.morebusiness.com/templates_worksheets/bplans/printpre.brc

Once you have thought these questions through and come up with some plausible answers, proceed to step 5.

Step 5: Research that market.

Once you have identified your target market, the next step is to research it.

In this phase, you want to immerse yourself in trade journals, spec sheets, and periodicals about the industry your patent pertains to. You want to discover the prices of various commodities in the market that you will traffic in, the supply and demand patterns that determine the flow of the market. The goal of all this fact-finding is answering the following questions:

1. Who are my customers? (age, sex, income, etc.)

2. Where are they and how can I reach them? (what magazines/newspapers do they read?)

3. What quantity (and quality) do they want? (are there surveys that gather this data?)

4. What is the best time to sell? (Seasonal, yearly, etc.)

Many trade journals and industry sources can be accessed via the Internet. Yahoo, for example, offers an abundance of such material segmented by industry. Simply click the industry you want to research (law, jewelry, automotive, etc.) and you can browse a list of sources pertaining to them.

SRC: http://dir.yahoo.com/Business_and_Economy/Business_to_Business/News_and_Media/Magazines/Trade_Magazines/

Step 6: Re-evaluate/improve your product based on that research.

To paraphrase Prussian Field Marshall Helmuth von Moltke, "no product survives first contact with reality." If you are like most entrepreneurs, picking a target market and researching it has given you some ideas to improve your product. Here are some things you can tinker with, based on what you learned?

* Product packaging

* Pricing

* Distribution (where you'll sell it)

* The name

* Just about anything else open to your control

Once you have made the improvements you see fit, head to step 7 -- the prototype!

Step 7: Create a prototype.

Creating a prototype is one of the most rewarding phases of the invention process. It is that fateful day when all your hopes, dreams, planning, and research culminate in a working model. By this point, you are ready to whip up that prototype for display to investors, business partners, or the patent office (see next step.) Keep in mind that your prototype does not have to use the same materials, or look exactly like your finished product ultimately will. It just has to approximate what you have in mind and demonstrate that you are in fact working on it.

Once you have a prototype up and running, you can proceed to step 8.

Step 8: Secure a patent.

In the understandable excitement and inspirational fire of creation, many inventors rush into the patent process without doing their homework. Unfortunately, their zeal to push forward often comes back to haunt them in the form of longer wait times, higher fees, and more work that could have been avoided with proper planning.

One of the biggest mistakes many inventors make is filing a non-provisional patent right away. A non-provisional patent is "the real patent." To file for one, you need to fill out a bevy of legal forms, include sketches and drawings of your invention, and pay hefty fees. If your application is approved, you are granted a patent by the United States Patent and Trademark Office.

While many inventors will one day need to do this, few of them need to do it immediately. Instead, there is another equally safe but less expensive way to go: the 0 provisional patent application. In a provisional patent application, you do not file a formal patent claim, oath, or any disclosure statements about your invention. But what a provisional patent will do is lock in your application date and give you "patent pending" status.

If you have ever seen "patent pending" on product packaging or commercials, it is because the company in question filed a provisional patent application with the Patent and Trademark Office. It is actually unlawful to use "patent pending" unless you have done this.

What this means in layman's terms is that you can begin to market your invention and gauge how much interest (if any) there is before deciding to file for a non-provisional patent. In the meantime, you can market your invention with the full rights and protections of a non-provisional patent. If you have ever seen "patent pending" on product packaging or commercials, it is because the company in question filed a provisional patent application with the Patent and Trademark Office.

If you are smart and work quickly, you can use that 12 month period to hustle your idea and generate interest in it. By the end of that time you should have a very good idea of whether it is worth applying for a non-provisional patent.

Step 9: Decide on your track

There are several "tracks" you can take to bring your product to the marketplace.

One track is to become an "outsource entrepreneur." In this way, you essentially become a hired gun. You, the inventor, perform the tasks of researching and developing the product. Then, you "outsource" the manufacturing and marketing to partners with money. Those partners will develop, market, and fund the startup costs. In return for their greater efforts, they will receive a greater return. The benefit to you, however, is that this is one of the quickest ways to bring a product to market and exit with cash in hand. If you are a serial inventor, this can be a great way to build up some cash and move on from one idea to the next.

A second track open to you is licensing or selling your patent outright. Very simply, licensing is when another company takes over your new product idea and cuts you in on the sales via royalties. While selling a patent is fairly self explanatory on the surface, you should seek consultation from a lawyer prior to finalizing an agreement to ensure all legal documents are in place. Licensees can be manufacturers, marketers, or basically anyone who wants to carry your product into the market and pay you for the right to do so. Licensing arrangements are also flexible; some licensees take on all the risk, some take on less. However, most companies will only license a product if they are more or less sure it will succeed. Therefore, it is up to you to convince them of your product's prospects.

The disadvantage of licensing is that the earning potential is a bit lower than outsourcing, but the tremendous upside is that once you license a product you basically have no more responsibility to the product.

The other track is the most risky, and thusly the most potentially rewarding: starting your own company. In this case, you assume full responsibility: you make the product, you price the product, you get the product online or on store shelves, you handle the accounting, you pay the taxes, you own the process from start to finish. For more information on the steps involved, including writing a business plan and finding a manufacturer, view our other articles.

This is by far the most difficult process and many people rightfully so decide before hand to opt for sales or licensing agreements. However, if you do decide to move forward and create a business (highest reward and most risk) around your intellectual property you want to ensure that you hire on top talent. Failing to do so can lead to years of problems and ongoing stress. It's far better to invest in something you believe in and share some of the pie to increase your chances of building a successful company than to go it alone and take arrows.

By keeping these 9 steps in mind, you can increase the likelihood of success in bringing your product to market with confidence and profitability.

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Bringing a Product to Market

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About Amsec Gun Safes

!±8± About Amsec Gun Safes

Like a thief in new ways to access weapons cabinets, security of the weapons are kept in the home has a big problem for people. However, Amsec gun cabinets are a great storage solution when it comes to the protection of your weapons. They guarantee a high security technology. Amsec basically is an abbreviation for American security.

However, before the name associated with the American Security is a safe, which everyone has tight control of the 28 points, to submit to qualify as fit for use.Amsec is designed to be the largest manufacturer of security cabinets around the world. There are typically four types of Amsec gun cabinets that are available, namely the set of high security, fire and intrusion-Series, Series W and Series Low Profile

Series High Security Amsec gun safes gun cabinets is only on the market, against the resistant tools. This safe, UL Group II lock protected. He has a hard drive that is strong enough to break the perforation is. It also has twoadditional re-locking spring. And 'the dense body of these safes door with a 2-3/4 "of material that provides resistance against fire, which broke the security of weapons in the safe when the fire is made.

An interesting thing about the BF series of Amsec gun cabinets is his body, DryLight isolation, the need for plasterboard surrounding eliminated. The body of the safe is made of two layers of steel, a steel coating on the inside and aOutside, for double protection. DryLight insulation in two layers also helps to protect against fire. These safes are also successful in terms of safety. They keep weapons out of reach of other family members, especially children and thieves.

The best part of the LP series of Amsec gun safes is its low price and high quality that is offered. It has a suede completely new, which are fire walls and rear walls. In addition to protection against fire, but alsoprovides protection against thieves, as it is with a key lock with digital variable combination of Group II. It also has a brass dial and domestic spying and re-locker.

Last but not least, W-Series to be durable as any other series of Amsec gun cabinets Amsec safe from fire. For security reasons, the 3-wheel combination lock with a drill-resistant protected hard drive. The steel resistant door is very strong and reliable to protect your firearmsand rifles.

Therefore, there are many types of Amsec gun cabinets are available from which you buy. So say goodbye to sleepless nights were spent worrying about the safety of your arms and a future Amsec gun safe. Amsec as a protection against thieves and unfortunate accidents like fire, there is nothing that the arms can reach without your consent.


About Amsec Gun Safes

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